Paris Fashions – Fall Collections 1944

The first fashion show from liberated Paris –

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion

The liberation of Paris sent a thrill of mixed anticipation and anxiety through the dress designers of London, New York and Hollywood, some of whom have thrived mightily during Paris’ long night.
The first Paris fashion shows, therefore, brought forth groans of both dismay and criticism.

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion

Paris however proved that it still has that certain ‘je ne sais quoi’, when it comes to materials, color and the way to put them on the bodies of women.

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion

The first full length revelation in photographs of the results were covered by Life Magazine in photographs.

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion-Jean-Patou

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion-Jean-Patou

The shows were only really for advertising purposes. Paris had no materials to make the clothes for sale. It had only enough to make the strange and wonderful originals. Much later would come the real commercial shows for business.

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion -Lelong

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion – Lucien Lelong

A million people live indirectly from the French fashion industry and France claims it could export $400,000,000 worth of fashions.

Lee-Miller-in-paris-1944

Model and Photographer Lee-Miller in Paris for the fall collections 1944

At the moment Paris styles are still influenced by a period when a conqueror was in France. the clothing arrogant, mannish even. Women are made to look tall with high heels, high hats and high coiffures.
Substitute materials and the needs of bicycles also affect the styles.

Paris Fall Fashion--in-1944-Paquin

Paris Fall Fashion–in-1944-Paquin

Popular materials are cords, plaids and checks.

Lee-Miller---Paris-Fashion-show-in-1944

Lee-Miller—Paris-Fashion-show-in-1944

There are differences of opinion about skirts – as to whether they should be full in front or full in back, and as to whether they should be bell shaped or peg-top ( narrowing toward the knees). Upper sleeves are puffed, wrists are tight. Waists are tight. Skirts are short. Hips are rounded.

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion---Schiaparelli

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion—Schiaparelli

Yes, Paris is still full of tricks. It used buttons, fur pockets, fur cuffs and everything else with vast ingenuity. Coats button back onto skirts. Big pleats make pockets. Dull clothes have vivid linings. Suit coats look like cutaways. Hats are balloons, minarets, chef’s caps. Big sleeves are slashed, showing a tight sleeve beneath.

Paris Fall Fashion--in-1944 -Mad Carpentier

Paris Fall Fashion–in-1944 -Mad Carpentier

Fringes fall from pockets, blouses and gloves. Sleeves spring from the neck, the back, the elbow. Bodices are what the experts call “studied”, i.e carefully fitted and elaborated. Of course, much of this is unusable under US wartime restrictions, but it promises of better days to come !

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion---Robert-Piguet

1944-Paris-Fall-fashion—Robert Piguet

(ED. Notable brands in this first fall collection after the liberation of Paris included the brand new Mad Carpentier , which took over the house of Vionnet and featured the first names of its two founders Mad Maltezos and Suzie Carpentier.
Also old reliables Jacques Fath, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, Jean Desses,Maggy Rouff, Molyneux, Lucien Lelong, Schiaparelli, Grès, Robert Piguet, Marcelle Dormoy.
Coco Chanel is not mentioned.

That’s all !
Text©Glamourdaze 2015
Photographs©Time Inc

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